17.1.05

friable, red-brown, gravelly loam

I've been saying it for a while: Heathcote shiraz is the real deal.

Sure, the Barossa Valley - the big name in Shiraz for this country - produces some lovely wine, and I'm as guilty as the next for selling family members into indentured servitude for a bottle of Rockford Basket Press. But, for mine, the best comes from elsewhere.

My love for Heathcote shiraz germinated from a bottle of Occam's Razorsome 3 years ago. That particular session became one of those magical moments wine lovers refer to as The Perfect Match. That being when your meal and wine merge to create a wondrous experience that one does not forget. In that instance I was enjoying a particularly delectable char-grilled scotch fillet swimming in an equally divine jus and the shiraz and fillet (an obvious pairing, I know, but nevertheless) became an indescribable feast for the senses that quite simply made me hum with delight.

Since that point in time I have drunk a great deal of Heathcote shiraz and continue to be fascinated by its differences and consistencies. Unfortunately, the option to drink from this region occurs far less than I would like as sommeliers often cater to the safer, more obvious, choices and at other times the menu dictates a choice away from that section of the list (why have a great list of reds in a predominantly seafood based restaurant? Yes, Geoff Lindsay, I'm looking at you).

But even though the periods between bottles can fluctuate wildly, it's been quite a ride following the Heathcote trail, culminating in a fortuitous sitting with the very limited Wild Duck Creek, Duck Muck. This is arguably one of the best wines this country produces, but I won't elaborate as words do not really seem to serve it justice. Wallets do, though, if you believe price is the indicator.

But you don't need money to drink great Heathcote shiraz. Just head down to The Graham in Port Melbourne, let the Giannakis brothers treat you to some of the best service in the city, and order a bottle of their Shelmerdine to go with your steak or game. You won't be disappointed.

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